The best season for trekking in Annapurna region are spring and Autumn, much as in most Himalayan regions. The Indian monsoons brings incessant, sometimes torrential, rain to the southern Annapurna slopes between June and September while winters can be severe in the higher reaches during the months of January and February, with heavy snowfall blocking trails.
That leaves the periods March – May and October – December as most suitable for trekking in Annapurna region. In particular, April, October and November – more so November – are the best trekking months with mostly fine weather, clear mountain views and mild temperatures. The downside: these are also the months with the heaviest tourist traffic. So finding beds in lodges can sometimes be difficult. Indeed, many people consider December to be the ideal month: it may be a little cold then but there is less crowding and very clear weather.
Clear weather is obviously a vital prerequisite for treks in the Annapurna region, especially if it your first venture here. The beauty of the mountain anywhere is the best appreciated when the sun is not obscured; it is only then, with the play of light and shade, that the many hues and colors of the hills come alive.
There is of course, no absolute guarantee of clear skies even in December, but by and large, clouds are usually scarce in the post and pre-monsoon months, more so in the former. In the dry belt of Manang and Upper Mustang, to the north of Annapurna range, rainfall is of course far less frequent and you are mostly favored with fine weather.
Early March is normally perfect for the Annapurna Short Treks; there is still a nip in the air and the Rhododendrons have begun to bloom, particularly around Ghorepani. But usually it is very cold in the higher altitudes at this time, colder than in December with night temperatures dipping below -15 centigrade. It may not be advisable to cross Throng-La pass or enter the Annapurna Sanctuary because of snowstorms or avalanche risk at this time; spring is the worst season for avalanches near Annapurna Sanctuary. By mid march, however, temperatures become more comfortable, the snow begins melting and the mornings are clear, with small chance of light in the afternoon. Conditions are normally best for trekking between late March through April all over the Annapurna region.
By mod April, afternoon clouds and the occasional light drizzle become more probable though condition usually remain fine in the morning. In May, it gets rather warm and humid in the lower altitudes. You need to start very early to avoid the afternoon heat; carry only a light rucksack and plenty if water for you will sweat a lot. The atmosphere is sometimes hazy at this time. By midday, peaks are likely to be obscured by clouds and it may even rain. At the higher altitudes, however, the nights are now not so bitterly cold and the skies are usually clear until at least midday.
The monsoon rains begin to abate by mid September but in the lower hills, sporadic heavy showers are not uncommon, and it is still very hot and humid. The weather in the upper reaches is also relatively warm; the air is usually calm and the mornings normally clear.
By October, when the tourist high season begins, the cloud get scarcer and the vegetation in the middle altitudes shed their lush green hues and assume the yellow and rust shades of autumn. The usually fine weather is only occasionally interrupted by clouds sweeping up the valleys but rainfall is rare. Between Manang and Muktinath, night temperatures are now usually below freezing.
In November, the peak season, conditions are ideal. It is mostly clear even in the afternoons and while it is cold in the high altitudes, conditions are very pleasant in the lower hills. Early to mid-December, when the sky is usually always cloudless, is perhaps the best trekking period in Annapurna region is you are prepared for the freezing temperatures on the Throng-La or in the Sanctuary. Temperatures at night can fall to -15 centigrade in these places but during the day, it is sunny and relatively warm.
The monsoon and winter are typically off-season in the Himalayas but given the Annapurna region’s varied climate, you can trek comfortably in some parts even during these periods. For the Annapurna short treks, the early part of winter is close to perfect, just as the rainy season is so far Upper Mustang and Manang, thanks to the scarce rainfall there. Indeed, monsoon is probably the best season to trek in some of these regions, particularly the side trip to Tilicho Lake from Manang. But accessing the rain-shadow belt then is very difficult because of the heavy rains lower down. You could of course fly to Jomsom weather permitting. Remember that most lodges are closed at this time.
Though the experience may not be pleasant, a monsoon trek in the foothills has its own charm. It is when the forests are suffused with new life and flowers bloom in profusion. But the trails become muddy and slimy leeches creep up your legs. The streams turn into surging rivers and some small bridges collapse. It is usually always cloudy so the mountain slopes look dull and the peaks are obscured. Frequent rains disrupt schedules; if there is a landslide, a trail can be blocked for several days.
In Winter, late-December through February, apart from the intense cold in the higher altitudes, there is frequent bad weather with snowstorms and high winds. Avalanches often occur near Deuralii, just outside the Annapurna Sanctuary and also sometime around the Throng-La. Snowfall is often very heavy, and trail become impassable. The Throng-La Pass is often blocked by snow for days. Most lodges close and Jomsom flights operate infrequently. But the beauty of the snow-clad valleys, glaciers and mountains in winter, especially on clear days, is awesome; there is also a greater chance of spotting wildlife during this period.
Getaway Nepal Adventure (P.) Ltd
Thamel Kathmandu, Nepal